Items and accessories that reflect denim culture are pretty much a known quantity in todays world. ''Vintage'' has a million connotations & most denim labels take from the Old to give to the New. So , there is nothing ''new'' when talking about ''old''. The discerning factor regarding leaning on the past for influence is the difference one can make by means of interpretation.
Phil Goss knows about the past in denim culture & chooses never to replicate the same thing going forward, but use this know-how in an intellectual creative capacity to create a new ''take'' on an old theme.
Why make ''costume'' denim culture??
Good denim culture items always look ''good'' , right?
Wrong?
And this is one reason why:
Exhibit A: the Ijin Lambswool Backed Hoody
This is the Ijin version of an historic ''freedom ''cut sleeve. Phil Goss always uses the all-in-one, folded cut to respect the Ijin signature cutting technique on all key Ijin items , so here we see an interpreted classic applied to a house model. Note no sleeve head.
Fat lace hoody strings & deep azzure taping finish off the zip, which is pulled by the Ijin medallion pull.
The pockets are sewn on upside down & pressed over, in exactly the same way that hidden-rivet back pockets are sewn on vintage jeans.
''Under-over'' flatlocking joins the unbleached unseeded organic cotton side ribs to the body fabric.But only looking closely at the sandwiched effect that emerges from the grey marl sweat shirting top knit can we really see why this item is so special.
It is an overweight Grey marl knitted with non other than a pure Lambswool yarn back & brushed for good measure.
So, this is why these items were called ''fleeces''.......
From the back we can see that the proportions perfectly respect a vintage item , yet the whole back piece is cut from one single shape.... Also notice that this '' Sweat'' is cut on the horizontal, as a cross-sweat - exactly like a 30s Champion- which means that the sleeves will be more maliable & bend easier because there is no actual shoulder point.
** Ijin note : like a true Champion , this sweat will get longer , before it gets thinner when you wear it....carefully..
And there it is.... Like most decent things in life : good on the inside.
A hand-cut, stealthy logo hits the back shoulder. *big-up to Northface ( personal Phil Ijin favourite brand)
And here's the rub....literally.
Beautifully soft & so terriblly warm.
The Ijin Lambswool backed Hoody
At Ijin we say ''Those who do not remember the past are condemned to repeat it...''
As David Byrne says in 'Psycho Killer' : ''say it once , why say it again ? ''
Enough said......lets move on
1 comment:
Effin lovely!
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