COPPERS FOR NO EXTRA COFFERS : ESSENTIAL IJIN VALUES

Hard times for everyone means checking out the real value of goods we spend our hard earned coffers on.
With this in mind let's check out the humble yet essential value of the Ijin copper rivet, which comes at no extra expense on every Vintage 6 Pocket Selvedge leg.



And while we are thinking that all jeans have a copper rivet, let's bear in mind that most rivets in commercial circulation are actually not made from copper at all.
Nor do they have a solid die cast nail, that spits out tufts of slow-loomed denim at points of strain, like on the unusual "hangman's tree" fly stitch..



Or on the offset selvedge coin pocket ( tipped on its side in case you didn't notice..)



And also take heed of that engraved white donut button...(not real Ivory; "eco-Ivory" of course..)
The centre nail casing is also made from resistant copper, taking the pressure of bending over those twin spikes, hammered-in carefully at the Ijin workshop in Italy.



Shiney when new, this "Red Brass "denim "jewellery" soon tarnishes to that wonderfully dull & authentic gun metal colour, to demonstrate that "seasoning" ( an ijin term for wearing-in your denim for a long time ) your Ijin denim will actually prove the composition of the rivet to be that of copper.

Count on Ijin coppers, for no extra coffers!

IJIN CAMBRIC "Y" LEGS

Spring is upon us & the seasonal wardrobe gets the periodical switch over to lighter matters.Whilst emptying the heavyweights from the Ijin storage department, a much undervalued Ijin model was discovered. And an item that warrants further examination as its appearance is in stark contrast to the amount of similar, present day product types in the so-called premium denim market.
Step up the Ijin Cambric "Y" leg.





So whats the big deal? we hear whispered at the back...
Well, lets's start with the choice of cloth. An unusual 2x1 woven 10 oz. cambric canvas. Unusual by virtue of the fact it denies it's workwear origins , linked to cheaper mass produced coveralls, by actually being a Japanese woven selvedge, from Nisshimbo.The leg itself has a wide white selvedge sewn all the way up, but at the hip point point, the selvedge is turned into the pocket entrance.



The pocket facing is the key piece on the garment as it is cunningly turned into the identifying element on the leg : the "Y" detail.
Stitched in contrast unbleached thread, the "Y" becomes the garment branding, highlighted by the slanted belt loops, functionally holding the wide selvedge in place , nice & flat , for a dead straight outseam.





In fact the inside , as ever with Ijin Irregular Indigo Items, has as much attention ( if not more ) than the outside appearance. Check out the striped ticking pocket finishing, the taped back seams with runner tag on the Ijin "floating" belt loop & those cheeky turquoise blue button holes, on the trademark hidden button fly.







Now, lets examine that triple needling :obviously this is the classic labour pant stitch which gives strength. However as with most Ijin sewing details everything is not what it seems: one thread is sewn with real indigo thread , which leaves 2 closely positioned unbleached threads & also an appearance of narrow needle tailoring.
Nice!



If something seems absent , its the trademark halfman logo.
This time its sewn on the inside of the pocket welt, visible only after the pocket is worn down by the weight of a decent horsehide chain wallet.Notice the mini-yoke reinforcement triangle - where the braces buttons would be on historical garments.
This is also a sewn "Y", stitched with single needle precision in the Ijin Italian workshop.



So get diggin in your archives & find those Ijin rarities.
The Ijin Cambric "Y": underestimated excellence.

MONOCHROME (half) MEN : A VISUAL HORS D'OEUVRE AS JOACHIM BAAN SHOOTS IJIN

Visual creative Joachim Baan has taken some very beautiful detail shots of the latest Ijin bestsellers, shot in trademark seductive monochrome.
Fabulous & soon to be released.......

Check out his site anothercompany for other eyecandy.

Link

LESS IS MORE! PRESENTING THE "MINIJIN"

Hot off the steam press are the latest limited edition irregular indigos presented by Ijin Material : " Minijins"
A perfect replica of the original Foldedge ( tm ) cut Classic Backstrap in all its specialist glory , but only 22 inches tall.



Complete with shaved leather backstrap & standard Kuroki cloth base, these glass cabinet items are already a classified collectors item.
Check them at the coolest denim store in Europe,Tenue de nimes in Amsterdam.
http://www.tenuedenimes.com

Link

IJIN MEETS HIS MAKER : JAPANESE MILL KUROKI VISIT THE IJIN HQ

Ijin Material was honoured to be added to the list of specially chosen denim labels that were to be visited by historic Japanese mill Kuroki, on their flying visit to Europe.The Kuroki mill supplies the standard rustic cloth that Ijin uses for all the key line products.
Here we see Ijin Phil presenting the Fall09 denim offer to manufacturing maestro Takashi Hirai & head fabric technician Yasu Adachi at Ijin HQ in Central Italy.




Ijin Phil proudly demonstrates the final product & all the beautiful patinas of the standard rustic Kuroki cloth, operated on all Ijin key line items.




How is it sewn.....? Takashi examines the perfectly straight sewing line on the new model Tuxedo Selvedge, which demonstrates the art of sewing a selvedge, completely intact, up the outside of the leg, perfectly matching across the yoke & with fully functional pockets.
Don't believe it either....? check out this new item for Fall09.




Ijin Phil explains the inner finish of the lined pockets , & the whereabouts of the hidden Ijin red tag on the workshop floor.




Deep in concentration: all Ijin denim thread counts & shades are scrutinised for authenticity.





Takashi , Yasu & Ijin Phil enjoy one of those denim moments in the intimate surroundings of the Ijin private cloth warehouse.



Italian Kuroki agent Adriano Giardinieri blags the rarest item in the Ijin archives: the Ijin Irregular Indigo Jacket

DEADJACK POCKETS SPECIAL EDITIONS.

One of the most recognizable aspects of an Ijin garment, after the cut of the leg , is the pocket embroidery.
The infamous "halfman" , who symbolizes, & endorses, the folding-and-cutting techniques specialized by Ijin.
"He" is present on most Ijin irregular denim as the regulator of the genuine product
But , rarer still , are these embroideries : the " Deadjack".
The name originated from the resemblance to a Union Jack flag composed of laying down body shapes....
This embroidery made it's debut on the very first run of "ijins" way back-in-the-day, in 2004 & was never to be seen again.

Until now....

This pocket is available on special order & is available on very limited product placements on sale in NK , Solo & Vox Closed Shop in Stockholm.
The Ijin Deadjack pocket : To die for.....
http://www.111vox.com
http://www.solo.se/Pages/Article.aspx?id=71

THE IJIN LAUNDRY HITS MODEFABRIEK

Currently showing for Fall 09 is the Ijin offer of irregular indigo items , & here we see the blue roadshow stopping off to pick up premium custom at Amsterdam's top "shopping mall" Modefabriek , at the end of a very chilly January.
Top boys Rene Strolenlenberg & Finn Alpberg explain the intricate details of the Ijin open-leg "fold-edge"( tm) cuts to the ever-cool Dutch punters with the aid of a vintage Singer, whilst keeping a sharp eye on the whereabouts of the new Ijin Laundry denim styles & ( secretly) counting up the coppers of the huge success of the new premium washed selvedge legs.

But hold on.....did we hear the words "Ijin laundry"?
Take a close-up view of that label & check it out.
Roll on the autumn we say....