Tuesday, April 28, 2009

IJIN CAMBRIC "Y" LEGS

Spring is upon us & the seasonal wardrobe gets the periodical switch over to lighter matters.Whilst emptying the heavyweights from the Ijin storage department, a much undervalued Ijin model was discovered. And an item that warrants further examination as its appearance is in stark contrast to the amount of similar, present day product types in the so-called premium denim market.
Step up the Ijin Cambric "Y" leg.





So whats the big deal? we hear whispered at the back...
Well, lets's start with the choice of cloth. An unusual 2x1 woven 10 oz. cambric canvas. Unusual by virtue of the fact it denies it's workwear origins , linked to cheaper mass produced coveralls, by actually being a Japanese woven selvedge, from Nisshimbo.The leg itself has a wide white selvedge sewn all the way up, but at the hip point point, the selvedge is turned into the pocket entrance.



The pocket facing is the key piece on the garment as it is cunningly turned into the identifying element on the leg : the "Y" detail.
Stitched in contrast unbleached thread, the "Y" becomes the garment branding, highlighted by the slanted belt loops, functionally holding the wide selvedge in place , nice & flat , for a dead straight outseam.





In fact the inside , as ever with Ijin Irregular Indigo Items, has as much attention ( if not more ) than the outside appearance. Check out the striped ticking pocket finishing, the taped back seams with runner tag on the Ijin "floating" belt loop & those cheeky turquoise blue button holes, on the trademark hidden button fly.







Now, lets examine that triple needling :obviously this is the classic labour pant stitch which gives strength. However as with most Ijin sewing details everything is not what it seems: one thread is sewn with real indigo thread , which leaves 2 closely positioned unbleached threads & also an appearance of narrow needle tailoring.
Nice!



If something seems absent , its the trademark halfman logo.
This time its sewn on the inside of the pocket welt, visible only after the pocket is worn down by the weight of a decent horsehide chain wallet.Notice the mini-yoke reinforcement triangle - where the braces buttons would be on historical garments.
This is also a sewn "Y", stitched with single needle precision in the Ijin Italian workshop.



So get diggin in your archives & find those Ijin rarities.
The Ijin Cambric "Y": underestimated excellence.

Saturday, April 25, 2009

MONOCHROME (half) MEN : A VISUAL HORS D'OEUVRE AS JOACHIM BAAN SHOOTS IJIN




Visual creative Joachim Baan has taken some very beautiful detail shots of the latest Ijin bestsellers, shot in trademark seductive monochrome.
Fabulous & soon to be released.......

Check out his site anothercompany for other eyecandy.

Link

Thursday, April 9, 2009

LESS IS MORE! PRESENTING THE "MINIJIN"



Hot off the steam press are the latest limited edition irregular indigos presented by Ijin Material : " Minijins"
A perfect replica of the original Foldedge ( tm ) cut Classic Backstrap in all its specialist glory , but only 22 inches tall.



Complete with shaved leather backstrap & standard Kuroki cloth base, these glass cabinet items are already a classified collectors item.
Check them at the coolest denim store in Europe,Tenue de nimes in Amsterdam.
http://www.tenuedenimes.com

Link

IJIN MEETS HIS MAKER : JAPANESE MILL KUROKI VISIT THE IJIN HQ



Ijin Material was honoured to be added to the list of specially chosen denim labels that were to be visited by historic Japanese mill Kuroki, on their flying visit to Europe.The Kuroki mill supplies the standard rustic cloth that Ijin uses for all the key line products.
Here we see Ijin Phil presenting the Fall09 denim offer to manufacturing maestro Takashi Hirai & head fabric technician Yasu Adachi at Ijin HQ in Central Italy.




Ijin Phil proudly demonstrates the final product & all the beautiful patinas of the standard rustic Kuroki cloth, operated on all Ijin key line items.




How is it sewn.....? Takashi examines the perfectly straight sewing line on the new model Tuxedo Selvedge, which demonstrates the art of sewing a selvedge, completely intact, up the outside of the leg, perfectly matching across the yoke & with fully functional pockets.
Don't believe it either....? check out this new item for Fall09.




Ijin Phil explains the inner finish of the lined pockets , & the whereabouts of the hidden Ijin red tag on the workshop floor.




Deep in concentration: all Ijin denim thread counts & shades are scrutinised for authenticity.





Takashi , Yasu & Ijin Phil enjoy one of those denim moments in the intimate surroundings of the Ijin private cloth warehouse.



Italian Kuroki agent Adriano Giardinieri blags the rarest item in the Ijin archives: the Ijin Irregular Indigo Jacket