IJIN CAMBRIC "Y" LEGS

Spring is upon us & the seasonal wardrobe gets the periodical switch over to lighter matters.Whilst emptying the heavyweights from the Ijin storage department, a much undervalued Ijin model was discovered. And an item that warrants further examination as its appearance is in stark contrast to the amount of similar, present day product types in the so-called premium denim market.
Step up the Ijin Cambric "Y" leg.





So whats the big deal? we hear whispered at the back...
Well, lets's start with the choice of cloth. An unusual 2x1 woven 10 oz. cambric canvas. Unusual by virtue of the fact it denies it's workwear origins , linked to cheaper mass produced coveralls, by actually being a Japanese woven selvedge, from Nisshimbo.The leg itself has a wide white selvedge sewn all the way up, but at the hip point point, the selvedge is turned into the pocket entrance.



The pocket facing is the key piece on the garment as it is cunningly turned into the identifying element on the leg : the "Y" detail.
Stitched in contrast unbleached thread, the "Y" becomes the garment branding, highlighted by the slanted belt loops, functionally holding the wide selvedge in place , nice & flat , for a dead straight outseam.





In fact the inside , as ever with Ijin Irregular Indigo Items, has as much attention ( if not more ) than the outside appearance. Check out the striped ticking pocket finishing, the taped back seams with runner tag on the Ijin "floating" belt loop & those cheeky turquoise blue button holes, on the trademark hidden button fly.







Now, lets examine that triple needling :obviously this is the classic labour pant stitch which gives strength. However as with most Ijin sewing details everything is not what it seems: one thread is sewn with real indigo thread , which leaves 2 closely positioned unbleached threads & also an appearance of narrow needle tailoring.
Nice!



If something seems absent , its the trademark halfman logo.
This time its sewn on the inside of the pocket welt, visible only after the pocket is worn down by the weight of a decent horsehide chain wallet.Notice the mini-yoke reinforcement triangle - where the braces buttons would be on historical garments.
This is also a sewn "Y", stitched with single needle precision in the Ijin Italian workshop.



So get diggin in your archives & find those Ijin rarities.
The Ijin Cambric "Y": underestimated excellence.