Ijin Material

DENIM WHISKEY LOUNGE FEATURING IJIN

2011-12-27T11:42:00.004+01:00

Christoper J. Brown features only the love of authentic denim & the endless possibilities of 'seasoning' your indigo using your own recipe on his new web site DenimWhiskeyLounge
Here's a post you might know .....
http://denimwhiskeylounge.com/2011/ijins-jeans/

Good job Mr Brown...

The IJIN BICYCLE

2011-11-28T15:09:00.002+01:00

Phil Ijin uses the only eco-way to get to the studio of a morning : The Ijin Vintage Bicycle

A rare Thai import ''poorman's'' Raleigh , made in Iron with imperial nut & bolt spiralling & monster shock absorbers to ride out the cobbles on out of stock 27 inch wheels .

A Beaut.

IJIN GIRLS LEGS

2011-11-22T18:42:00.002+01:00

They are not a common sight - Ijin Girls Legs - but when you see the fit , even in a non stretch Jap milled denim , you know you have met your maker.....

IJIN RED LINE COIN POCKET

2011-11-15T18:53:00.002+01:00

Nicely ''seasoned'' Rare-run Selvedge Ijin item with a rotated selvedge coin pocket shows exactly what real Copper wash & burr rivets look like with age....

Solid & not coated.

IJIN : BLOG POST

2011-11-15T16:45:00.002+01:00

Its always nice to be appreciated in different languages....

Here is an Italian Indigo Fan... themaninsideofme

IJIN : DENIM DIRECTORY

2011-11-15T16:38:00.003+01:00

Just in case you didnt know enough about Phil Ijin & his independent denim research label , please read through the new on-line denim directory ,here called Jeanculture.

IJIN INDIGO STEALTH

2011-11-12T11:57:00.002+01:00

Excellence should always be understated: An example of which is shown here : The Ijin Indigo Bartack.

Stitched in real indigo thread it is almost invisible to the untrained eye....

And the Diamond-head sewn rivets are actually stronger than traditional solid Copper nails.....

Functional stealth : Standard

IJIN RIVET POLICY

2011-11-12T11:40:00.002+01:00

Phil Ijin uses 3 different rivet types on specialised items like the Selwyn Six in Marine selvedge ( woven by Phil Ijin himself)
This is the rivet used on the signature Sixth pocket - the overlaid heart back pocket.

Not only rope stitched in contrast, it purveys its very own sunken-cap, copper rivet that wont scratch the furniture or your leather car seats.
Genial & Genuine...

IJIN SELVEDGE IN ACTION

2011-11-11T17:54:00.002+01:00

To the untrained eye, the new Ijin 5020 is , perhaps, just another selvedge jean...
But look closer to see how & why Phil Ijin earned his indigo stripes amongst the denim hierarchy....
Indigo as Artform.

As rare as hens teeth.......

IJIN TUXEDO LEG : INSIDES OUT

2011-11-11T17:51:00.002+01:00

Phil Ijin exceeds in the excellence of sewing selvedge with the Tuxedo Leg & a fully exposed Kurabo red selvedge one & a half inch busted seam, uninterrupted down the full length of the leg.
All contesters please step up.....

IJIN BACKSTRAP BLU

2011-11-09T11:25:00.002+01:00

The new offer develops the Blu Line with the addition of the signature Ijin Item originally introduced in 2004 : The Classic Backstrap.
Beautiful in Blu....

IJIN LUGGER BAG

2011-11-09T11:23:00.002+01:00

Along with the denims , the newest Ijin accessory comes in the form of the Lugger Bag

Here modelled in-store by Phil Ijin
....put it on your wish list......
Coming Soon....

IJIN PIPED SELVEDGE

2011-11-09T11:20:00.002+01:00

A return to the classics does not mean making replicas....
Phil Ijin does not allow this.

Progress is paramount.Denim is eternal & respecting the past is essential.
But creativity within the realms of tradition is a difficult balance...
Like a snail on a razor blade....
Or an Ijin Piped Selvedge Leg....

IJIN AARON 15 SIX

2011-11-09T11:15:00.005+01:00

Phil Ijin introduces the new Aaron 15 Six.
The new Moody Blu in a Tight fit , with highlighted Blue detail stitching & the Ijin signature ''Sixth pocket''

Coming soon....

IJIN WESLEY NUDE

2011-11-09T11:12:00.002+01:00

The winter season brings us the Wesley Nude .

A new version of a favourite Ijin leg ,this time without the piping & with a special highlighted ''Blu '' stitch...
Shortly available .....

RAIN STOPS PLAY....

2011-11-09T11:09:00.001+01:00

Rain stops Play...
well.. shooting Ijin garms outside with vintage Yashicas....
Mr Phil Ijin tries his patience...

IJIN REMAKE HOBO BAG : THE ''PENDLETON''

2011-11-09T11:01:00.006+01:00

Traditionally speaking a Hobo bag is favoured more by women than men... so Phil Ijin thought he should re-address this prejudice with his original interpretation, including a real Hobo aesthetic : Woodman Checks
The result : The Remake Ijin Hobo Bag ( for men )
Easilly slung over the shoulder , stealthily concealable under a your waxed jacket & made in no other than an original Pendleton mills woollen checked shirt ( worn out of course ) with the entry through the original button down collar
And all fully french seamed , sewn by none other than the seamster himself, recycled & re-made to order.
Moral of Creativity : ''Waste makes woeful want''.
*Confirmed collaboration of Ijin for Pendleton Mills pending...
For further details contact info@ijinmaterial.com

THE IJIN DETAIL: BLUE BARTACKS

2011-11-09T10:59:00.002+01:00

Phil Ijin likes to get things straight & narrow on the Ijin selvedges.The profile is as important as the front or back & to check this out, lets examine the precision sewing ...
Not only that, but the Pale Blue bartacks that identify the 12.5 ounce slow loomed denim choice....

LET IT RAIN...

2011-11-09T09:58:00.003+01:00

Ready as ever with new blue ideas, Phil Ijin presents the Ijin Rain Kape this winter as part of the new waterproofed ''Nouveau Outdoors'' line of Ijin Indigo Impermeables....

IJIN SEASONED SELVEDGE : CUSTOMISED

2011-11-09T09:48:00.007+01:00

Real indigo selvedge really is this blue.... But not at first.
Seasoning your stiff Blue-Blacks takes time,insistence & above all patience to obtain these unmistakably natural whiskers.
And sometimes the ''wear-outs'' , well , wear out in that meantime...
So what better remedy for crotch consumption than a Phil Ijin Custom Crotch patch : individually handstitched with a carpet needle & with the ''aka mimi '' carefully lined up with the inseam , this adds a new dimension to the prestige of the red line garment aswell as an extra personalisation , to be shown at the wearers discretion...

Ijin: Innovatively Individual Indigo.

IJIN INTRODUCES THE AIJIN LINE WITH THE MINNY LEG

2011-01-30T22:03:00.008+01:00

Maestra Ballerina Ms. Cecilia points the way, wearing the new stretch quality, dark denim skinny legs optical drop waist from the new Aijin line

Before you ask ''aijin'' means lover or mistress in Japanese.

Obviously the perfect partner to the mens line of Ijin denim.

Coming soon.

IJIN INDIGO IMPROVEMENT IDEOLOGY

2011-01-28T12:49:00.011+01:00

Ijin Material applies the philosphy of On-ko Chi-shin to all jeansmaking techniques.This is a Confucian proverb, adapted by the Japanese, which means "by asking old things, know new things" or in contemporary jargon "respect the past , create the new".
In times of uncertainty, it is healthy to refresh knowledge gained in the denim field, take a sabbatical & go back to the drawing board to relearn.
Children have no fear with regards to learning & are known to be able to acquire information at an incredible rate. Using this mindset, Phil Ijin decided to regress, inorder to review & improve the art of Ijin jeans-making...... with a little help from one of the junior Ijin staff.
The humbled approach to indigo expertise is founded in the fact that one should never think that they are too old to learn something new.
So , if you thought you knew all there is to know about denim, take a modest step back, close your eyes & take another look, preferably through the eyes of a child , with no in-built preconceptions or prejudices.
Ijin irregular indigo items : available for all free thinking denim affecionados of any age.

IJIN ANNOUNCES THE DEMISE OF THE RED SELVEDGE

2011-01-24T20:54:00.005+01:00

The holy grail of denim is now officially dead.The red selvedge has suffered recent over exposure by the masses of newcomer denim labels & has reduced the aka-mimi ''red ear'' to the ranks of token vintage detail by the nouveau-antique replica makers.

Red.... is Dead.

In fact the red colour chosen by Levi Strauss& Co. was never the original colour for the weave-in edge anyhow.

As we (should) know , it was white.

LSCo used it as identification for its own choice of denim in the Cone Mills warehouse so it couldn't be mistaken for a cloth of the competitors.And from this we learn that every brand should be easilly recognised by an original approach to its product.

And Ijin Material is no different , as Phil Ijin has nailed the original white selvedge for the Artisan line whilst also adding a little personal touch to boot. Well, could we really expect anything less?

The Marine Selvedge has a second white chalk stripe on each side to highlight the nautical aspect of its roots in Genoa , also adopting the genoa-blue indigo shade , rather than the ubiquitous Blue-Black tone of the many.This purer blue colour is a striated count from multi dip yarns aimed at depth of blue rather than a Black over wash.Plus its more of a truer tone because of its higher concentrate of real indigo rather than reactive.

So stand up for your stripes, stand out from the crowd & dont stand for anything less than the righteousness of the purist white.

White is so Right.

IJIN DETAILS : THE SILENT MAJORITY

2011-01-24T17:46:00.007+01:00

Everything counts in small amounts....

Phil Ijn knows a thing or two about jeansmaking.The knowledge increases over time & the honesty never wanes .The attention that should be placed on the value of the know-how necessary to be able to even consider manufacturing premium denim can sometimes become lost within the myriad of contemporary denim labels offering their overnight-Heritage wares & faux-Americana, as if they actually had anything to say & had ever been fresh water Bass fishing from a row boat or spent a cold night chopping firewood for the log cabin stove.

The abundance of product purveying more style than content of late provokes a specific reference & honorary mention here, to our best denim friend: the humble detail.

All prestige jeans makers place equal emphasis on every step of the assembly process. Stitching is in fact the mainstay of denim & therefore requires the foremost attention.Phil Ijin has a specific stitch count & thread size for every element sewn on an Ijin garment. Real indigo dyed thread is a stalwart item: fading back as the denim is ''seasoned'' in gradual & natural steps. Bar tacks are of a certain length , that is to say , longer than the actual belt carriers it aims to reinforce.

These elements are the Silent Majority of jeansmaking & the most often overlooked indigo brass tacks.

And lest we forget that jeans are fundamentally linked to the rivet. After all, the patenting of the rivet originally lead to the birth of the jeans ''brand'' , long before denim labels actually existed. So , pay homage to the grommet. Phil Ijin uses the genuine article ''wash & burr'' sold nail ,real copper rivet which splits & spits the denim cloth out of the top in tufts that act as a guarantee that you are holding the real McKoy in your hands.

The importance of the ''detail'' is what jeans making is all about in & failure to incorporate the small particulars means inferior end results to the final item. And dressing denim up in Lumberjack disguise only raises questions of authenticity & authority.

Premium denim means exactly that , so remember the moral of the story : the whole is greater than the sum of its parts.

** Disclaimer: Phil Ijin would like it known for the record that he has never ever indulged in sitting around a campfire tying knots for animal traps or been seen firing a Blunderbuss at a Moose at dawn on a misty moor.

Phil Ijin: Authentic Premium Jeansmaker

IJIN at GODS OF DENIM

2010-11-04T12:18:00.003+01:00

Gods of Denim make a pretty good display of some very select Ijin Items on their new site, describing Phil Ijin as ''The Outsider. A fresh and highly original artisan label from a true denim pioneer. If you liked early Evisu, walk this way''

Check them out:

Gods Of Denim

JEANS & MUSIC CONTINUED: 55dsl.com featuring Denimaniac & Brother Foster

2010-10-28T10:20:00.012+02:00

Jeans & music was first featured here with the Ninja vs Ijin collaboration of some two years ago.Since then Ryo-san from japanese blog ''Good Music''has featured Phil Ijin alter ego Brother Foster, in nearly as many times as he has been buying Ijin Material jeans....

The idea of a blue-beat ''Collective'' has now been extended even further with the inclusion of Denimaniac , who have expanded horizons by being one of the chosen few blogs to be included on the new 55DSL.com web site , a new internet based ''collective home of some of the world's best bloggers, the place to feast your eyes and ears on the latest creative inspirations from around the globe.''

Check out the site 55DSL.com

Then check the highly original Denimaniac space there.

IJIN AKA-MINI EMBROIDERY

2010-10-21T19:20:00.002+02:00

Beautiful details come at no extra cost , just extra consideration.Check out this macro shot of the ''aka-mini'' embroidery favoured by Phil Ijin on certain Ltd edition items , stitched with love onto selected baby calf hide.

Before you ask aka -mini is a play on words with the Japanese aka-mimi or ''red ear'' term for red selvedge denim ( or self-edge) if you are a Luddite , or ''salvage'' if you are a blogger....

Whatever your indigo leanings are, care & attention are the real issues here , so respect your neighbours & remember to always shout quietly.

BUSY BUYING IJIN : The Cruce crew at work.

2010-10-14T15:46:00.003+02:00

Here's a great sketch-image of the buying crew of Cruce getting down ( literally ) to the nitty gritty of the Ijin denim details , most of which can be clearly seen in this essentials-only outline shot.

Check out some Facebook shots.

MARINE SELVEDGE : Selwyn

2010-10-04T15:41:00.007+02:00

Tailoring or Jeansmaking ?

At Ijin we like to consider that there is much of a muchness regarding the tailor & the blue craftsmen & the art of making mens items look exactly right.Jeans have to look like , well jeans, but the interpretation of the ''classics '' is the key element to be different from the pack. Whilst the blue pack find it hard to venture away from the obvious ideals, fearless Phil Ijin knows that replicating is not such a big deal & being original is......

Selwyn , this particular model , not only fits like it should , it is '' branded'' by the signature jeansmaking interpretations of the classics in the way that only The Ijin knows how.

In fact they are so subtle , they are glaringly obvious....... but only to the trained eye.

First up : Selwyn is stitched completely in real Indigo thread.

More Importantly : It is made from an exclusive slow denim milled soft touch workwear blue denim - not blue-black - with that all important detail : the custom selvedge.

This double white selvedge - the Marine - is an Ijin exclusive, a key identifying element to distinguish the best from the rest, worn with pride & at just the right cuff size.

Let them ask you about it , before you have to tell them anything......

SASOKU SIX : Ltd Edition Left Hand Leg

2010-10-01T12:14:00.004+02:00

At Ijin Material we pride ourselves in presenting authentic denim in an alternative manner , whilst fully respecting traditional jeans-making techchniques.And , as we know , Phil Ijin always likes to slip in the odd Limited Edition.

This Fall season sees the Wrap-leg cut RAPP 16 model treated to a new guise of ''gauche''. Using a special Kuroki milled 13 oz. left-hand weave , silver-cast denim, article 5020 is presented with all the pocket details sewn on the opposite sides to the regular version, in order to reflect the special nature of the ''S'' construction indigo twill.

It also has a centrally sewn waist label & an ecclesiastically based purple stitch detailing , which highlights further, the fact that denim is a religion & we are mereley it's humble servants.

Furthermore , this product is limited by one other factor : in Sweden , the only store chosen to stock this item is ISH.

So check out ISH , whilst stocks last.

IJIN INSIDE : Franking Sense...

2010-09-29T16:21:00.002+02:00

Beautiful vintage Italian Calico cloth postal envelopes were the inspiration for the new labels featured on the inside waist bands of the current Ijin Fall collection.

Instead of calico , Phil Ijin opted for a premium Cambric trim for the newly designed interiors as shown below.

IJIN IN CRUCE : the best blue store in Italy

2010-09-29T15:44:00.003+02:00

About time..... or just in time.....?

Sometimes things go stagnant in the market & then out of the blue ( sic ) a concept jeans store is born that is so important it simply cannot go unnoticed.

Welcome CRUCE ( spanish for ''cross '' as interpreted in the road signage graphic ): a denim designer dream that one would literally cross the country to see , let alone a street.

Ijin Material was honoured to be invited into such an exclusive retail atmosphere intent on featuring research-only product & cult blue brands in the heart of Livorno.

Cruce is one hell of a design environment & something of a temple of indigo with extreme human contact (...there is a work-out gym ) & a strict emphasis on denim design & art.

And in that order.......

CRUCE PRJ#0001/LI via Ricasoli 128 Livorno Italia.

http://www.cruceprj.com/

Ninja Tune is 20 : Trax special edition featuring Phil Ijin

2010-09-29T15:08:00.008+02:00

Happy Birthday to the inspiring independent music label Ninja Tune ( 20 years young...) & love-child inspiration behind the Ijin vs Ninja denim collaboration featured previously on this very blog. Check:

http://ijinmaterial.blogspot.com/2009/01/dj-kentaro-spotted-in-ltd-edition.html

As the current trend for ''jeans & music'' runs rife through Ijin HQ , Phil Ijin is more than slightly honoured to have been invited to feature in this collector's edition of French magazine TRAX, who dedicated a whole issue to the brilliance of

the Ninjas , both musically & ( evidently ) sartorially speaking.

Extremely humbled by the whole experience , Phil Ijin says merci beaucoup

and more importantly............ '' Vive la Différence ''

GOOD MUSIC BLOG : Jeans & Music

2010-09-27T15:48:00.008+02:00

This world can be a beautiful place sometimes....

Those important things in life also tend to possess in-built bloodlines & as we know , birds of a feather stick together.

So no sooner has Phil Ijin announced that his alter ego is Brother Foster , the Ijin receives an enquiry to verify the fact.

Sugoii says Phil Ijin.

The message comes from music maniac blogger & good vibe collector, Ryo from Saitama, 30 kms fromTokyo, whose most comprehensive & aptly named ''Good Music'' blog can be checked here

But low and behold therein lies another curiosity....

Ryo is an avid Ijin fan whose mini-collection of acquired Irregular goods is more than impressive ( especially the ONLY pair of japanese sized ''Little Horns'' in existence on this beautiful world of ours)

Very kakkoii

Domo & ja mate-ne Ryo

Good Music & Ijin Material : The real Blue Beat

The IJIN ''ALTER EGO'' : The BROTHER FOSTER

2010-09-22T19:52:00.003+02:00

So , here it goes.....

Phil Ijin doesn't usually divulge such information easilly .

It has to be ''extracted '' with the precision of a surgeon's skalpel...

As you avid viewers may have understood, music plays ( sic) a large part in the life of The Ijin , therefore, without further ado, click the link & check some ear-candy from the soundsculptor a.k.a. The Brother Foster

Check The Facebook page

The Blog

Enjoy the ride.

IJIN SLUMBER BLEU : Mini Mood Movie

2010-09-20T17:13:00.008+02:00

It appears that Phil Ijin simply cannot let go of the endless Summer & gets the blues of a different kind as he dreamilly anticipates year Eleven with an atmospheric sonambulism into the next season's sleepy selection for this, the most special solstice.So what better way to schlep into a surreal Springtime step than with a new promotional format , from The Ijin himself:

The MINI MOOD MOVIE

To view MINI MOOD MOVIE ''Slumber Bleu'' simply check http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=05Rxssq2o50

As ever , The Ijin's musical ear is ever influential & specially selected.....
Music is ''El Toro'' by the most excellent Bonobo from the album Black Sands on Ninjatune,

the IJIN ''AKIN'' SHIRT

2010-06-28T13:15:00.007+02:00

The Ijin Indigo family,like all denim affecionados, is based on the belief of an idea & the love of a genre.
And,like all good family men, Phil Ijin is loyal to a fault & infatuated with a good idea.
So much so, that, whatever the weather, Ijin will always have a garment to fit the bill, whilst respecting the past.
Summertime is the season that presents any denim label with the perennial dilemma of offering the correct & suitable product for the warm season,whilst applying the reality to the philosophy laid out above.
So here is a sneak preview of a solution to the problem....

The AKIN shirt, whose ancestral strain stretches as far back as the ALSO shirt (previously mentioned here.. )
Modelled majestically by Ijin ''face'' , Mr Kin, & soon to be available from ISH
Happy Holidays...

IJIN CUSTOM LAUNDRY: ERBBA WASH

2010-05-28T10:15:00.004+02:00

Ijin Material Spring 10 bestselling wash update : Errba

Errba , for the green fingered amongst you, is a name-take on the Italian translation of ''grass''
This is a dark effect , lads-wash item with an authentic ''bashed-in-from-dry'' look & Sunday football laundering( i.e crinkled & left in the dryer for 5 days...) , muddy patches & vegetable grass stains mixed with a dirty background & knee veining as if tucked into boots.

This custom laundered effect is an home grown ingredient & part of a 10 recipe, original wash menu, cooked up in the Ijin kitchen by top denim chef , Phil Ijin.
Available now from zoovillage

The IJIN ''ALSO'' SHIRT

2010-04-18T16:42:00.005+02:00

Its true that Ijin is better known for irregular indigo items.The signature denim by jeansmaker Phil Ijin ( née Goss) is more than a highly recognisable contribution to the denim world.One to insist on & rely upon.
Ever good & innovatively intrepid. Less is more.True to the word.
But what would one choose to affiliate with such a perfect protagonist piece of Ijin Indigo?

Check out Mr Kin sporting this very Ijin item...
The Ijin ''Also'' Shirt : an antique washed Bleu-Noir Oxford shirt with a hybrid mini pocket in overtwisted Cambric.Stealthy as you like,the many cross-bred details on this new Ijin shirt are like any worthy masterpiece: there is always something else to discover.
Check out what top Dutch denim dealers ,Tenue De Nimes had to say about this.

The DEFINITIVE IJIN ITEM : The FOLDEDGE BACKSTRAP

2010-04-17T11:08:00.004+02:00

Every now & again nostalgia strikes & reminds us mere mortals that memories are part of our make-up.
In 2003 Phil Ijin had a vision of the alternative indigo item, with strong reference to the On Ko Chi Shin mentality & subliminal critical path for approach to design:
''Respect the Past & Create the New.''
A modern day classic was born in the form of a denim jean that has stood the test of time & which we should remind ourselves , looks as fresh today as it did more than 6 years ago.There is still an understated elegance to the silhouette of this leg which is cut from a single piece of folded denim & has survived the initial onslaught of copies ( Hugo Boss launched a complete denim line based on the signature Ijin model : Shame on you....) because of the numerous & intricate heritage details & the default original & highly technical cutting method that Phil Ijin invented in the Ijin Italian workshop.

A stalwart for maintaining a slightly edgy, left field stance, The Foldedge Backstrap has firmly set the standard for contemporary 5 pocket denim & ranks as one of the true new Classics of the last decade, whilst still looking as fresh faced as ever in 2010.
As Rudyard Kipling said ''Lest We Forget''

IJIN HICKORY: SUPREME SUMMER STRIPE SELECTION

2010-03-29T11:52:00.004+02:00

Easter is upon us & after one of the longest, bad weather Winters in living memory, there are finally rays of sunshine poking through the cumulonimbi which means only one thing in Indigoland: Hickory Stripes.

So to find out some more info on these curiously stealthy detail images go to the Tenue De Nimes always-up-to date blog & read some more.....

SEASONED IJINs pt.4 : DENIM ARCHIVE

2010-03-24T17:47:00.004+01:00

A new blog has been born focussing on the fine art of archiving ageing indigo as worn by your goodselves. This is a process of worn-from-dry insistence ( & persistence) which Phil Ijin terms ''Seasoning''. In fact his posting on this blog-log called Denim Archive can further explain this image & much more.

Also click here to back log the original post on this very blog to check the development of this particular seasoning process.
Beautiful Blue Blogs Boldly Bloom....

IJIN CUSTOM LAUNDRY : SLITHA WASH

2010-03-18T11:33:00.004+01:00

The Ijin Material Spring 10 collection is clearly divided between the Ijin Laundry offer ( recently launched for Fall 09 ) & a fresh selection of innovative Dry Cuts that we come to expect from alternative jeansmaker , Phil Goss .
The new Laundry offer continues to break new ground with innovative Italian hand finishes,& custom recipes, all specifically washed on 14 oz Kurabo selvedge denim, for maximum render. Styling is kept to a bare minimum to allow the cloth treatments shine through & each have individual names, such as this one called ‘‘Slitha’’

This is an Ijin "extreme wash" with authentic worn-from-dry veining & special thread-bare, mattress repairs.
Pocket & waist seams show hand grinding,additional paint rubs & very subtle staining, but the key element here is a permanently fixed, authentic blue-black colour , which gives an 3D, dry handle, crispy resin finish

These premium washes now make up a total line offer of 10 original wash recipes cooked up in the Ijin kitchen.
On sale now at selected stores.

IJIN MARIN LEG

2010-03-15T17:35:00.004+01:00

The new drop of Ijin Marin legs should keep you afloat if you missed the boat on the current seafaring denim offer....

Check out Vox for a special discount for the jean with the white buttoned, winking pocket.
Or they will be gone in the blink of an eye...

IJIN INNARDS : INDIGO INTERIORS

2010-03-15T17:13:00.006+01:00

Ijin Indigo is well known for its attention to detail, both outside & inside.

So whilst sampling recently Phil Ijin snapped some of the newer Nautical influenced interior intrinsics & inbred intimacies.

Indigenous & indispensibly inside.
*Wearing inside out is an option left to the discretion of the wearer.
Ijin Material disclaims responsibility for any unproven outcome & unwanted comment due to the execution of such.

PHIL IJIN ON THE PATH OF ENLIGHTENMENT

2010-03-15T17:05:00.002+01:00

Its good to know that somethings in life are not too far away & that we can all find our ''raison d'etre'' if we keep the faith.
And when Phil Ijin is not actually making jeans , he is writing about them for others....

Check out the guest contributor's first literary offering for Denimaniac.

IJIN SPEARMINT SIX : INDIGO RECOLOURED

2010-03-06T18:07:00.006+01:00

The denim world has many rules in the jeans-making handbook ( mostly unwritten , of course ). And rules are always meant to be bent every now & again, written or not. So with this in mind & after a jaunty dip in the thread box in the workshop, Phil Ijin instantaneously shines new light on an Ijin favourite model, The Tight Fit Six , a wrap-leg article with the signature no-outer-leg seam below the knee.

And what of this irregular choice of thread colour : Spearmint green.
What could have influenced that choice?
Check out below.This will give you something to chew on.....

Ever inventive Phil goes for the pattern piece tone of green card to re-design an old friend & make contemporary companions with the culture of colour.
Inspiration is everywhere , right...?

However, other colours are presented in the range , which includes Hazzard Orange ( inspired by the General Lee) & Chelsea Blue ( inspired by the best team in the world.......)

Check out a similar buying story on blog.ish

D.O.C IJIN ITEM : THE 5207 SELVEDGE BELT-BACK SIX

2010-02-25T10:09:00.013+01:00

In todays denim market we are spoilt for choice.And now that Nippon has (finally...) been ''discovered'' by indigo affecionados & the land of the rising sun shines brightly on the blue horizon as the current focus in the premium denim world, we should perhaps be reminded that genericism is not strictly confined to the East. At Ijin we use the letters D.O.C ,very carefully & very quietly (whilst maybe we should speak them a little bit louder). At least just loud enough to be heard over the current cacophony about the japanese labels....
To explain ''D.O.C'' ia an abbreviation of denominazione originale controllato in Italian ( & in French is almost identical ) meaning guaranteed as original or basically the ''Real Mckoy'' ( in olde-speake denim slang).So, as a living & breathing example of an original, here is the Ijin Belt-Back Six (in nipponese 14 ounce akamimi...what else)

Like all true denim classics, this item flies the heritage jeans-making flag in sewing specs & details & like all true Ijin classics it carries the Phil Ijin touch & interpretation to transform the classic into a generic model.But just enough to customize history without making it unwearable or ( heavens above ) ''fashion''.The sixth pocket is the most obvious element here, a detail taken from a regenerated vintage Baseball Pitcher's shirt some time ago , but also serving as the branding itself. A ''victorian'' belt style (an ironic pseudonym obviously as there is no monarchy in the US ) is added in the Ijin signature style, in itself quite anonymous , whereas its real purpose is not only to show that you know your onions , but to display the beautiful sewing skills of the Ijin Italian workshop & the way in which the belt lies flat against the back without interfering with the yoke line, nor creating the merest pucker as it is inserted cleanly into the waistband.

Further more there is the solid-cast, single piece belt ''buckle'' & those tight & over-long, indigo thread bar tacks that melt back in colour with the natural wear of the garment.Not to mention that standard Ijin triple needle seat seam....
So remember, that in a denim world where you have to shout to be heard,independent indigenous indigo items exist, quietly & patiently waiting in the wings,unsung Blue Heroes, as authentic as the rest & as beautiful as the best.
Silent but deadly....
And ''guaranteed as original''.

Check Ish for stock details of this iconic Ijin item.

The IJIN ARCHIVES : the BROGUE ANKLE CUTTER

2010-02-24T12:17:00.010+01:00

Time is an interesting concept when it comes to ''reviewing''.
As time marches on in the footwear field it is easy to accept & choose from the numerous offers of feet-candy available today: And all styles are available today...
So , to tell a tale , a few years ago ( in 2006 to be precise ) Phil Ijin designed a Lo-Top Hybrid Work-Boot that was not Sport nor Street, neither Fish nor Fowl , nor Sneeker nor Shoe, as far as classifying feet were concerned.
However, in any time period, it is crystal clear to see references from historical shoe styles that were incorporated.

Brogueing of course ( we are British at Ijin ...) was a must-have feature, taken from those clog wearing Peat farmers of a bygone age , aswell as an Adidas ( not Nike : we are European at Ijin...) Wrestling Boots foot form.(*Strangely contemporary today , but once a strictly competition-only model.) Combine this with an Oil resistant , Greasy Ox leather top body ( think Redwings : we are well researched at Ijin... ) & behold:
a new breed of ''Bastard Boot'', is born.

Despite the heavy weights of historical hark-backs involved in the make-up of this item,a remarkably light weight sole held these ideas in place ( think Plimsoles here : we are English at Ijin..... )
This super-rare Ijin Ankle Cutter had one last trick up its jeans cuff however & its that strange gussetted & over long tongue, to boot ( sic).
This particular detail was interpreted from vintage Vivienne Westwood ''Breaker Boots'' ,er, ''back in the day''.

At Ijin we are also very Pagan...

IJIN FEMALE : CLASSIC REFITS FOR THE DENIM DAMSELS

2010-02-23T12:04:00.008+01:00

Every now & again Phil Ijin gets a request for something sweeter in the range,often by the ''fairer sex'' looking for the boy's-look in denims from the Ijin back catalogue.Carefully selecting the Ijin Classic Backstrap as protagonist presented a re-fit situation in order to dress the feminine form without losing the signature ''Foldedge'' cut & maintain the splendid details of the original Ijin item.

With a swifty snip of the sheers & not even enough time to powder your nose , voila... : the Aijin Classic Backstrap.
E absolutement rien de problem ( by the looks of things)
And, before you ask, there is no typo in that name however .
Aijin . Well, this is a Japanese word for ''mistress'' or ''lover''.

Check out this offer at Vox.

IJIN INDIGO GOES NEUTRAL

2010-02-17T11:13:00.005+01:00

Its interesting to note that the word ''neutral'' is usually applied to subjects with a slightly negative tone, describing something as possessing no distinctive quality or characteristics. Yet, in the Indigo-sphere the use of a non-indigo denim ( is this a contradictory term...?) could be compared to reading the riot act & be considered something of a Blue blasphemy.
So, not very neutral, then...

At Ijin headquarters the fearless Phil Ijin knows no jeans-making boundaries & showing unbleached & unseeded organic cotton, selvedged ''denim'' for the Standard red-line leg presented no real moral issues.After all , denim was not always blue, & canvas qualities ruled the prospector roost, back in the day & once upon a time ( in America). And then there's that description ''Red-line''.On closer inspection we can notice that whilst red is present on the ''self-edge'' , there is a more unusual orange line accompanying the red one, creating a slightly Rustic Summer feel.Interesting is that the shaggy Ox calf label pays homage to the 'hair-on-hide'' classic waist label, however tipped on it's feet & sewn on the left side ( like all Ijin selvedge cuts ) it is signature Ijin through & through, especially with the Diamond sewn rivets & that triple needle back seam ( the only 3 needle seam on the garment, specially added for extra resistance)
And Resistance this certainly is,in the Indigo sphere, so waste no time sitting on the fence, ''Go Neutral'' & always remember:
''the revolution will not be televised: the revolution will be live''.

The IJIN ''SALTY SEA DOG SELVEDGE''

2010-02-16T12:39:00.006+01:00

As mentioned in the previous post , the Ijin double selvedge presented this Spring encompasses & circumnavigates the current mood for all things Nautical, currently favoured in the indigo-sphere.
So portside over, lets check out what's going on in the Ijin engine room.

Manning the helm, are beautifully linear hand-sewn outer legs showing just how precise the selvedge has to be to stay buoyant & maintain the wrinkle-free , shark's fin crotch line.

Gracefully cut lines make fair sailing with no rogue waves on the horizon.

No need for contrast stitching when the not-so-stealthy selvedge rides the waves.
Well maybe a signature Ijin hand-sewn diamond rivet for added durability if the going gets rough.
Tow the line this Spring, or you will be made to walk the plank , me hearties...

Check out what Denimaniac thought of this post.

IJIN CUSTOM DOUBLE SELVEDGE : MINI vs. MACRO.

2010-01-29T12:21:00.006+01:00

Within the fields of true denim product there are rules & regulations & straying to far from the indigo path is a mortal sin.So ,despite the endless potential possibilities, not everything is permitted with a crusading jeans product.Less is usually more & subtelty is the key to have authentic edge in your signature denim product.
We have had the trend for bucket turn-ups for some time now with Rockabilly abundance, so things have gone 'forward' in time to 60s Mod minimal & a mini one inch turn-up.
"About time" we at Ijin say.

Despite the trend for the"mini" , Ijin Material's Phil Goss is renowned for that ever present razor's edge tweak & here is no exception.Presenting, the"macro" Ijin extra wide double selvedge

A double Tram line construction, this custom Ijin design denim has an extra white selvedge , similar to a deckchair stripe which is used in both functional & decorative in equal measures, both holding form to the leg & purveying a slight " Harbourside" atmosphere.
Plus permitting you to show your exclusive & authentic Ijin ''colours''
Available from February 2010....
Less is more? Hmmm...

PHIL IJIN UNEARTHS UNIQUE LEVIS

2010-01-28T16:50:00.014+01:00

Having good reference in the world of denim is invaluable & Phil Ijin uses only the cream of the chronicled crop.So it will come as no surprise that deep within the Ijin Research Vaults, a lot of indigo goodies can be found.
Some are odd , most are interesting, some totally unique & a lot are vintage.
Number one on the list of desirable archived items would be any vintage Levis, usually commanding immediate close inspection by collectors, with most models are already a known quantity,due to a dwindling supply of any true originals remaining.
However, here is one original ''vintage'' from the Ijin Vault that has never been seen in public before...

Lets start by saying they are a mere 20 years old & probably 517 Bootlegs , so of little real worth as they stand as an actual model.
Until you really check them out....

These legs have been re sewn & repaired so many times that they have actually taken on a new personality & they are so beautifully soft & shredded that they can almost be stroked .

The cloth has totally disintegrated in areas like the crotch & the back pockets, that there is practically no original cloth left at all.

Inside just gets better...

As we can see they are almost totally re-sewn & mended so many times that they are technically quilted.

And this was the belt carrier...

*Many thanks to Jimmy Becci for his kind donation to the Ijin archive & especially to his Grandmother for having re-sewn his jeans for the last 2 decades with love & dedication & for having created a true denim masterpiece, whose worth as a labour of love far exceeds the value of its original cost.
Remarkable & priceless.

The IJIN ''HALF-MAN'' RED TAG

2010-01-27T19:37:00.004+01:00

As most of us are aware, of the RED TAG is a denim sacred cow.It can go anywhere as long as it is confined to the right hand back pocket of a certain brand of jeans...
Well, yes, as long as it is visible....
On every pair of Ijin legs there is also a red tag on the pocket. It just happens to be on the inside , stealthy & out of sight, for correct indigo etiquette. Out of sight , but not out of mind, because it guarantees the product to be the genuine Ijin item.
Go check....& see the ''half-man'' as a whole.....

PHIL IJIN'S SLING : THE TRUTH BEHIND THE MYTH

2010-01-27T19:23:00.007+01:00

So having slipped over Buster Keaton style & destroyed his elbow - which literally exploded internally - Phil Ijin was left with the dilemma of attending various line presentations purveying an obvious & ugly looking appendage. Or making something positive out of the situation...... The proverbial ''glass half empty or half full'' question. So with a brimming glass held in his good hand, he tailored up a custom make Ijin sling to carry on marketing the denim label in increasingly more creative ( & bizarrely practical) ways.

An Ijin accessory line should follow shortly..........

IJIN GREEN : THE OTHER GREY....

2010-01-26T19:50:00.005+01:00

Green means ''jealousy'' means ''military''....hmmm. At Ijin we like green.
We like surplus as much as the fact we don't always have enough of it (sic).
So what would happen if we changed some ideas about colours & their traditional asssociations about around...

Then the grey marl sweat could become the IJIN GREEN MARL SWEAT

Custom colour heavy weight original tubular knitted sweats: an Irregular Ijin Item.
Indispensible.

IJIN PIPED SELVEDGE ( comments by Nalden)

2010-01-26T19:26:00.005+01:00

Most complimentary ) comments posted by ''blog father'' Nalden in reference to the Slim fit Ijin Piped Selvedge, now a modern day classic indigo item.
As the man himself says, these jeans possess ''Striped cotton pockets that are so soft that you want to sneeze in it''
At Ijin we know this already , but have never actually put it to the test.....

Gesundheit!!.

IJIN XRAY.....

2010-01-25T19:32:00.002+01:00

Here's a shot of an old style , unusually made in Corduroy.
Shown in negative you can see the original & authentically generic lines of construction that all signature Ijin models operate in this, the ''Wrap-leg'' Cut.

IJIN REDLINE BUTTONHOLES

2010-01-25T19:08:00.005+01:00

So , selvedge can be useful.....as we discover on the backpocket of a new release Ijin ''akamimi'' ( or redline ) model for 2010.
Avoiding all those dog-eared pocket tops Ijin decided to make a tailor finish use of the humble selvedge , which can act as a self-made functional hem.Also looks good when used in an unexpected position.

Across the pocket top the selvedge is sewn , busted open, & left open a the point that a button can be placed, but reinforced with strong long bartacks. Obviously the pocket is cut across the warp weave & therefore offers some interesting shading & automatic Ijin ''seasoning'' tricks.

And what of the button.....here it is the Ijin ''Tin Plate'' button, based on Military kit kitchenwares , it is in fact solid copper with an eggshell enamel.

Looking closely you can see the wording which is lazer etched & the copper which is tarnished on the back because of the heat generated.

IJIN VICTORIAN BACKSTRAPS ( secretely photographed)

2010-01-23T19:53:00.004+01:00

Stop press: Ijin Victorian backstraps photographed at secret location in North Europe.
Note that this style was run only ONCE & has not been seen in public for over 4 years.
Enjoy.
VERY RARE....

The IJIN ARCHIVES : The ORIGINAL IJIN WEB MOVIE

2010-01-23T19:44:00.005+01:00

For those of you who never saw the original thumbnail 'movie' from the first Ijin Material web site (broadcast on the mini IJIN TV)
Here it is......
* The customized Ijin sling is as real as the x-ray shots of the pins in my arm.
Fact.
A painful one.

The IJIN ARCHIVES: IJIN STADIUM JUMPER

2010-01-23T18:57:00.023+01:00

Here is an amazing Ijin back issue : The Ijin Stadium Jumper.
Based on original reversible silk Baseball zipper jackets ( called 'jumpers' in Japan) the standard full back embroideries traditionally show the islands of Japan in close proximity to neighbouring threat , Korea.

The Ijin philosophy of avoiding replicas is well documented here, as we can see the interpretation of the 'real threat' is non other than our old friend the Gundam, who having invaded Earth already , are firing lazer beams at the human astronaut who has been exiled into outer space to become an 'alien' in his own planet.

Here's a close-up to check the stitch count on that embroidery & the beautiful shading on the cosmonauts glass helmet.Not surprisingly, this item was from the Spring 06 'Capsule' collection......

On the front we can see some other expelled cosmonaut comrades floating in limbo on the front pecs.

Details are always a key feature with Ijin garments & here we can see the traditional 'Cheung Sam' jacquard fabric ( or Suzie Wong dress fabric to the 'gwai los' out there...) used as the reversible wear side of these style of jacket.

A close-up of the double label which is based on the hand-stamp personal details logo adopted by 'ijins' & other fellow aliens.

The curved welted pockets are meticulously finished with hand-stitched triangles of pastel silk.

The raglan sleeve is seamed with a sports stripe, which is in turn embellished with standard double twisted silk piping.

And here's the final item worn bravely reversed side out by Ijin's very own Asian correspondent & 'brother', Mr Sin ( real name) & down-to-earth 'alien'.

The IJIN ARCHIVES : The IJIN WOOL-BACK HOODY

2010-01-22T18:39:00.013+01:00

Items and accessories that reflect denim culture are pretty much a known quantity in todays world. ''Vintage'' has a million connotations & most denim labels take from the Old to give to the New. So , there is nothing ''new'' when talking about ''old''. The discerning factor regarding leaning on the past for influence is the difference one can make by means of interpretation.
Phil Goss knows about the past in denim culture & chooses never to replicate the same thing going forward, but use this know-how in an intellectual creative capacity to create a new ''take'' on an old theme.
Why make ''costume'' denim culture??
Good denim culture items always look ''good'' , right?
Wrong?
And this is one reason why:

Exhibit A: the Ijin Lambswool Backed Hoody

This is the Ijin version of an historic ''freedom ''cut sleeve. Phil Goss always uses the all-in-one, folded cut to respect the Ijin signature cutting technique on all key Ijin items , so here we see an interpreted classic applied to a house model. Note no sleeve head.

Fat lace hoody strings & deep azzure taping finish off the zip, which is pulled by the Ijin medallion pull.

The pockets are sewn on upside down & pressed over, in exactly the same way that hidden-rivet back pockets are sewn on vintage jeans.

''Under-over'' flatlocking joins the unbleached unseeded organic cotton side ribs to the body fabric.But only looking closely at the sandwiched effect that emerges from the grey marl sweat shirting top knit can we really see why this item is so special.
It is an overweight Grey marl knitted with non other than a pure Lambswool yarn back & brushed for good measure.
So, this is why these items were called ''fleeces''.......

From the back we can see that the proportions perfectly respect a vintage item , yet the whole back piece is cut from one single shape.... Also notice that this '' Sweat'' is cut on the horizontal, as a cross-sweat - exactly like a 30s Champion- which means that the sleeves will be more maliable & bend easier because there is no actual shoulder point.
** Ijin note : like a true Champion , this sweat will get longer , before it gets thinner when you wear it....carefully..

And there it is.... Like most decent things in life : good on the inside.

A hand-cut, stealthy logo hits the back shoulder. *big-up to Northface ( personal Phil Ijin favourite brand)

And here's the rub....literally.
Beautifully soft & so terriblly warm.
The Ijin Lambswool backed Hoody

At Ijin we say ''Those who do not remember the past are condemned to repeat it...''
As David Byrne says in 'Psycho Killer' : ''say it once , why say it again ? ''
Enough said......lets move on

IJIN INNER SECRETS : HAMMER THOSE NAILS

2010-01-22T17:34:00.003+01:00

Phil Goss & Ijin always insist on one thing ''every denim item does its duty''.Okay , so Admiral Horatio Nelson said something similar in 1805 at the onset of the Battle of Trafalgar , but one element remains clear here , to do things well we have to perform at our utmost best.
Denim is a beautiful cloth.We know this.And jeans are a religion. We know this too. But what makes jeans even more beautiful are the sum of it's components & the jeansmaking recipe you cook up. One major factor applied in the indigo kitchen is the industrial jewellry you dress denim with. And we are talking about nailing cloths together here. In the Ijin handcrafting workshop we insist that ''nailing'' the denim is as important as sewing it.
Here we see the customized Ijin copper rivet nails in all their resplendent ''red'' beauty.

They will discolour & tarnish when worn, but at source they look like red gold. No ordinary ''pin'' , these are double standard solid cast ,real copper nails ( not alloy or dipped ) & they will break the thicknesses of denim at stress points to such an extent that tufts of cloth are pushed out of the top cap.To the untrained eye this is unnoticeable, but to the connossieur this is a pedigree second to nothing else that we are talking premium item.
Using a grey-blue selvedge cloth adds authenticity to heritage denim Ijin pieces, but not before choosing an un-singed or ''hairy'' denim , which is semi-finished rather than flat finished & leaves a fledgling flannel effect on the surface.
This leave absolutely no doubts that your are holding denim with a duty to uphold the standard...

IJIN INDIGO : WEATHERING THE CHANGES

2010-01-22T17:09:00.005+01:00

THE COLD ( continued)
The current cold spell in Central Europe is obviously less distinct in the country where temperatures of -20° or more are the norm.So in a secret venue outside of Moscow in a small village called Klyazama & on a relatively warm day, photographer Stas M (aka Garmonique ) stripped down to his boxers & decided to shoot his favourite Ijin Slim Red Line legs next to a thawing pond,( but just quick enough to avoid frostbitten familly jewels.)
Stas is obviously invigorated by the experience & goes on to theorize :
''Ijin Material is organically blending into the late autumn Russian country side.
Industrially produced but bearing features of a living object Ijin Material(s) organically blend with and become part of the natural environment (background)''

We like the resulting icy tones of the description as much as those in the shots. Well weathered that man.
Brrrrr....
For more images from our intrepid guest snapper Stas M , click the title.

The IJIN ARCHIVES : The IJIN NORDIC KNIT

2010-01-22T15:59:00.008+01:00

January, in the new decade & its absolutely freezing..... Apparently not only where the Ijin workshop is ( in Central Italy) but all over Europe North & South & snow is the order of the climatic day.Tons of it.
Its so cold in fact that I was reminded of a favorite style offer from the Ijin Fall 06 line offer : the Ijin Nordic Knit.

This was a very traditional Scandi Snow Flake pattern knitted into a felted wool ''cloth'' & assembled in the same manner as the original Ijin Backstrap denim leg , with the body & sleeve cut as one single piece.

It is based on a vintage Track Zipper style with a logo ''medallion'' zip pull running into a turtle neck, colour contrast linking, ribbed side panels & a 30s high waist rib.

But on closer examination, things are not quite so traditional after all.Over-sewn into the body of the knit were a variety of different sized ''half-men'' & some were even appliqued onto the knit itself for added warmth, camouflaged ''gilly'' effect.

Better still was the fact that this item was also accessorised by a matching scarf, technically making the Nordic Knit a ''twinset''.This was personalized with its very own logo to remind us of its roots......

.......our perennial perfumed pendant pal , Monsieur Arbre Magique.

One of the key labels Phil Goss uses is the Ijin personal details stamp label. This is usually printed, but this time it's woven in the form of a a satin label in a stealthy tone on tone black.

Further more we discover that the Nordic knit was not in fact a twinset..........but a tri-set.
The legendary third item in this series came in the form of the ultimate anti-chilblain accessory : the Ijin Footless Top-Sock.
Guaranteed to keep all snow out of your Redwings & your blood circulating in all sub zero temperatures affecting our climate- changed lives in the new decade.
A very ''convenient truth'' & a true Ijin classic.

MINIJINS SPOTTED IN STOCKHOLM....

2010-01-21T18:37:00.009+01:00

The Ijin roving reporters were out in force in an unusually sunny Stockholm, stalking for style.
Spotted on a doorstep was a mysterious & unlikely pair,both decked out in Ijin denim , but of very differing ages.....
Ijin went to investigate.......

Could this youngblood be a future Ijin ace face....

Aha....non other than Mr Finn Alberg himself & youngest extended family member.
Bless.

Check out this product at Vox

The IJIN ARCHIVES : The IJIN TAILOR JACKET

2010-01-21T17:50:00.009+01:00

It seems a few years ago now - 5 years ago in fact - that Phil Ijin introduced the sartorial flavour of the Ijin Tailor jacket into the denim collection.
Original as it is, its roots lie in another more beautiful item : an authentic WW II British Battle dress Coat.

The preferred A-line shape , oversized pockets & tiny ( dare we say Japanese shoulders...) were the staring point , however , like most Ijin items , the inside is a fabulous as the outside & this is as important to the garment as its outward appearance.

This piece is actually unworn deadstock : check the sewn in paper labels & the 40s hand stamp year of issue.....

A winter option was also offered in the Ijin line: this time in twelve Wale Cord du Roi ( or corduroy to most..)
Note the signature overlaid pocket ( called the Ijin 6th pocket on the legs ) was sewn in raw Calf hide.

The neck was reinforced with Chino Gabardine & the branding was executed literally in the form of a hot stamped Hide label.

Gabardine was also used to face out the gauntlets & the double back vents.

These could be paired with the Ijin interpretation of an Loose Leg Okinawan Chino

Here is a rare shot of Phil Ijin wearing his the ''seasoned'' version

IJIN LAUNDRY as worn by ''NACCIA''

2010-01-20T18:33:00.017+01:00

** shot shows : Naccia reflects on the Ijin custom DEPP wash .

As a perennial fan of antagonistic visual arts, Phil Ijin invited situationalist artist Signor ANDREA NACCIARRITI to, well...model the new Ijin LAUNDRY LINE, but only in his own inimitable manner.
The immediate stimulus of a customised wash was enough for Ijin's very special guest model to express altered states, knee-jerk reactions, & out of character experiences to the original interpretations of the re-conditioned Ijin denim, uniquely photgraphed in the manner forthwith shown.
Check out the legend of the ephemeral installation , in full blown indigo-action.....

Here , Naccia models Ijin custom HAUTT wash.

Here , Naccia models Ijin custom MEKKANIK wash.

Here , Naccia models Ijin custom SKINNT wash.

However, to explain in the correct visual manner, take time to check out the exceptionally unique talent & beautifully ephemeral works of Andrea .

Here are two personal favorite installations:

Title: ROAD CROSS

Title: SUSPENSIONS

Absolutely unique.

COPPERS FOR NO EXTRA COFFERS : ESSENTIAL IJIN VALUES

2009-05-06T11:41:00.009+02:00

Hard times for everyone means checking out the real value of goods we spend our hard earned coffers on.
With this in mind let's check out the humble yet essential value of the Ijin copper rivet, which comes at no extra expense on every Vintage 6 Pocket Selvedge leg.

And while we are thinking that all jeans have a copper rivet, let's bear in mind that most rivets in commercial circulation are actually not made from copper at all.
Nor do they have a solid die cast nail, that spits out tufts of slow-loomed denim at points of strain, like on the unusual "hangman's tree" fly stitch..

Or on the offset selvedge coin pocket ( tipped on its side in case you didn't notice..)

And also take heed of that engraved white donut button...(not real Ivory; "eco-Ivory" of course..)
The centre nail casing is also made from resistant copper, taking the pressure of bending over those twin spikes, hammered-in carefully at the Ijin workshop in Italy.

Shiney when new, this "Red Brass "denim "jewellery" soon tarnishes to that wonderfully dull & authentic gun metal colour, to demonstrate that "seasoning" ( an ijin term for wearing-in your denim for a long time ) your Ijin denim will actually prove the composition of the rivet to be that of copper.

Count on Ijin coppers, for no extra coffers!

IJIN CAMBRIC "Y" LEGS

2009-04-28T09:19:00.008+02:00

Spring is upon us & the seasonal wardrobe gets the periodical switch over to lighter matters.Whilst emptying the heavyweights from the Ijin storage department, a much undervalued Ijin model was discovered. And an item that warrants further examination as its appearance is in stark contrast to the amount of similar, present day product types in the so-called premium denim market.
Step up the Ijin Cambric "Y" leg.

So whats the big deal? we hear whispered at the back...
Well, lets's start with the choice of cloth. An unusual 2x1 woven 10 oz. cambric canvas. Unusual by virtue of the fact it denies it's workwear origins , linked to cheaper mass produced coveralls, by actually being a Japanese woven selvedge, from Nisshimbo.The leg itself has a wide white selvedge sewn all the way up, but at the hip point point, the selvedge is turned into the pocket entrance.

The pocket facing is the key piece on the garment as it is cunningly turned into the identifying element on the leg : the "Y" detail.
Stitched in contrast unbleached thread, the "Y" becomes the garment branding, highlighted by the slanted belt loops, functionally holding the wide selvedge in place , nice & flat , for a dead straight outseam.

In fact the inside , as ever with Ijin Irregular Indigo Items, has as much attention ( if not more ) than the outside appearance. Check out the striped ticking pocket finishing, the taped back seams with runner tag on the Ijin "floating" belt loop & those cheeky turquoise blue button holes, on the trademark hidden button fly.

Now, lets examine that triple needling :obviously this is the classic labour pant stitch which gives strength. However as with most Ijin sewing details everything is not what it seems: one thread is sewn with real indigo thread , which leaves 2 closely positioned unbleached threads & also an appearance of narrow needle tailoring.
Nice!

If something seems absent , its the trademark halfman logo.
This time its sewn on the inside of the pocket welt, visible only after the pocket is worn down by the weight of a decent horsehide chain wallet.Notice the mini-yoke reinforcement triangle - where the braces buttons would be on historical garments.
This is also a sewn "Y", stitched with single needle precision in the Ijin Italian workshop.

So get diggin in your archives & find those Ijin rarities.
The Ijin Cambric "Y": underestimated excellence.

MONOCHROME (half) MEN : A VISUAL HORS D'OEUVRE AS JOACHIM BAAN SHOOTS IJIN

2009-04-25T14:43:00.016+02:00

Visual creative Joachim Baan has taken some very beautiful detail shots of the latest Ijin bestsellers, shot in trademark seductive monochrome.
Fabulous & soon to be released.......

Check out his site anothercompany for other eyecandy.

Link

LESS IS MORE! PRESENTING THE "MINIJIN"

2009-04-09T11:33:00.012+02:00

Hot off the steam press are the latest limited edition irregular indigos presented by Ijin Material : " Minijins"
A perfect replica of the original Foldedge ( tm ) cut Classic Backstrap in all its specialist glory , but only 22 inches tall.

Complete with shaved leather backstrap & standard Kuroki cloth base, these glass cabinet items are already a classified collectors item.
Check them at the coolest denim store in Europe,Tenue de nimes in Amsterdam.
http://www.tenuedenimes.com

Link

IJIN MEETS HIS MAKER : JAPANESE MILL KUROKI VISIT THE IJIN HQ

2009-04-09T10:48:00.013+02:00

Ijin Material was honoured to be added to the list of specially chosen denim labels that were to be visited by historic Japanese mill Kuroki, on their flying visit to Europe.The Kuroki mill supplies the standard rustic cloth that Ijin uses for all the key line products.
Here we see Ijin Phil presenting the Fall09 denim offer to manufacturing maestro Takashi Hirai & head fabric technician Yasu Adachi at Ijin HQ in Central Italy.

Ijin Phil proudly demonstrates the final product & all the beautiful patinas of the standard rustic Kuroki cloth, operated on all Ijin key line items.

How is it sewn.....? Takashi examines the perfectly straight sewing line on the new model Tuxedo Selvedge, which demonstrates the art of sewing a selvedge, completely intact, up the outside of the leg, perfectly matching across the yoke & with fully functional pockets.
Don't believe it either....? check out this new item for Fall09.

Ijin Phil explains the inner finish of the lined pockets , & the whereabouts of the hidden Ijin red tag on the workshop floor.

Deep in concentration: all Ijin denim thread counts & shades are scrutinised for authenticity.

Takashi , Yasu & Ijin Phil enjoy one of those denim moments in the intimate surroundings of the Ijin private cloth warehouse.

Italian Kuroki agent Adriano Giardinieri blags the rarest item in the Ijin archives: the Ijin Irregular Indigo Jacket

DEADJACK POCKETS SPECIAL EDITIONS.

2009-02-05T11:34:00.003+01:00

One of the most recognizable aspects of an Ijin garment, after the cut of the leg , is the pocket embroidery.
The infamous "halfman" , who symbolizes, & endorses, the folding-and-cutting techniques specialized by Ijin.
"He" is present on most Ijin irregular denim as the regulator of the genuine product
But , rarer still , are these embroideries : the " Deadjack".
The name originated from the resemblance to a Union Jack flag composed of laying down body shapes....
This embroidery made it's debut on the very first run of "ijins" way back-in-the-day, in 2004 & was never to be seen again.

Until now....

This pocket is available on special order & is available on very limited product placements on sale in NK , Solo & Vox Closed Shop in Stockholm.
The Ijin Deadjack pocket : To die for.....
http://www.111vox.com
http://www.solo.se/Pages/Article.aspx?id=71

THE IJIN LAUNDRY HITS MODEFABRIEK

2009-02-05T10:06:00.000+01:00

Currently showing for Fall 09 is the Ijin offer of irregular indigo items , & here we see the blue roadshow stopping off to pick up premium custom at Amsterdam's top "shopping mall" Modefabriek , at the end of a very chilly January.
Top boys Rene Strolenlenberg & Finn Alpberg explain the intricate details of the Ijin open-leg "fold-edge"( tm) cuts to the ever-cool Dutch punters with the aid of a vintage Singer, whilst keeping a sharp eye on the whereabouts of the new Ijin Laundry denim styles & ( secretly) counting up the coppers of the huge success of the new premium washed selvedge legs.

But hold on.....did we hear the words "Ijin laundry"?
Take a close-up view of that label & check it out.
Roll on the autumn we say....

NALDEN: ENGINEERING THE FUTURE

2009-02-03T11:30:00.012+01:00

Fresher than the morning dew is this site carrying the most updated items in the what's-going-on-world we live, & surf, in.
Media guru Nalden apparently designed his site over the space of one year & certainly left no gemstone unturned in his Amsterdam loft to get there. Better than satellite TV ( well what isn't ...) Nalden has certainly established a benchmark for aspiring creative blogs to attain & was super quick to pick up on the best of the best denim , by placing this highly complementary post about the Ijin Piped-waist Selvedge Legs ( a limited edition item made for SOLO in Stockholm & only made available to a handful of today's media guests by special selection)
Check out this item & numerous daily posts regarding what's what today at:

http://www.nalden.net/#/newsitem/739/

Very cool.

IVAN VS. IJIN (latest!)

2009-02-02T18:40:00.000+01:00

Linking park!
Not one week has past since The Ijin posted something on this very blog about young Ivan, the very first ambassador of the Ijin archive, before I have been updated on the situation & can offer further views to the extent of his personal collection of Ijin irregular items.
I have been contacted by Ivan ( thank-you!) & can inform the world that his actual archive is composed of precisely 41 items, with no less than every single garment wrapping & label hangtag being carefully retained for prosperity & ( one hopes ) a certain amount of e bay value in times to come, seeing as The Ijin has found out that all & any money Ivan has in his jeans is spent on Ijin items( remembering that Ivan is not earning as much as he could do , being a student & all.)
So check out the fantastic collection that Ivan & his limited budget has put together.
Bless.
The Ijin is lost for words.
Brilliant!

"NINJIN" SUPER STEALTH SPECIAL EDITION

2009-02-02T17:58:00.001+01:00

You simply can't keep a good idea down it seems.However, Limited Editions are indeed never to be repeated & this is no exception. Easy as it is to produce the "Cash Cow" item in these recession-hit days we live in , Ijin stands very fast in times of trouble & creativity rules the roost with the new offering with Ninja Tune to update the sell-out collaboration items of last year, offered in meagre amounts of only 50 pieces per style first run production of "IJIN VS NINJA".
The current SUPER STEALTH SPECIAL pushes the boundary of product collaborations & avoids over-obvious logo usage as the endorsement , swapping B-boy bling for beautiful black on black. Full pocket embroideries of the infamous "Swarm" & "Mask" are styled on blackest dry denim as urban as asphalt , but dutifully dressed-down & disguised to all but the most clued-up & tuned-in customers in search of a Dark Lady, or two....

Interested in stealth-wear....?
Check out www.ninjatune.net/ninjashop

AMSTERDAM & THE IJIN

2009-01-30T17:59:00.005+01:00

The Ijin is delighted to present 2 very new elements , who are now on board the label in 2 related but different ways of representation. And both are from the 'Dam itself in the denim mecca of Holland.
So without further delay , come on down Tenue De Nimes a.k.a. Messrs. Menno van Meurs & Rene Strolenberg : the newest & most exclusive retailers of Ijin Material & also sales agents for the Benelux area who are definitely " not fishing behind the net " as I believe they say in Holland.

These sales gurus not only have the best store in town , in the Nine streets area of Amsterdam, but also the freshest approach to promotions & web press in the form of their very own on line magazine Journal De Nimes.
Check out the Journal de Nimes where you can also read some views from The Ijin himself & catch up on other exclusive brands they represent including Japanese textile wizards Momotaro & their exclusive denim product offer.
Nice one!

All this , plus being all round top good blokes, whatever can we expect next.....?
Watch this space & find out , but for now , head on down to Tenue de Nîmes - A Denim Inspired Boutique
Elandsgracht 60
1016 TX Amsterdam
+31 (0)20 3204012

ROOTS MANUVA DRESSES IJIN

2009-01-30T17:47:00.000+01:00

Great Scott!
First DJ Kentaro & now heres Mr. Rodney Manuva stepping out in fine style & promoting the latest album "Slime & Reason".
With a preference for the sartorial approach to dressing denim this creates the newest Ninjin look to date.
Well worn that man!

BETTER RED THAN LEAD....?

2009-01-30T17:21:00.000+01:00

Forward comrades we shouted as the Ninjin promotions machine moved up into top gear & the PR team gave the green light to the Red idea. "Futurism" was the actual briefing as some Ijin items are unfortunately not available to all & only some property is theft.....The rest has to be bought from the Ninja Tune web store.
But hurry ! there were only 200 collaborations legs made & stocks were running as low as the new sales ads posters seen here , which were being torn down as fast as they were pasted up around old London town & then re hung in secret locations of personal viewing with the politically correct soundtrack .
As you can see by the poster you can be red , without being lead....

наслаждайтесь !!

DJ KENTARO SPOTTED IN LTD EDITION NINJINS

2009-01-30T17:00:00.000+01:00

As you read here earlier , Ijin embarked on a Ltd edition run of collaboration legs with Ninja Tune , the famed leftfield UK music label & stalwart of aural delights that are strictly filed under "music ahead of it's time".
So it came with great pleasure to be supplied undercover paparazzi shots of non other than super disco breaks turntablist & sonic scratcher DJ Kentaro of Japan wearing the Ijin jeans called "ninjins". Apparently on his way out of Hong Kong airport this was snapped by " a man in the know" whilst Kentaro-san was embarking on his European tour last autumn.
We later discovered that his tour rider specified that he wore only the ninjins by personal choice. Nice one from the man nominated Worlds Best DJ & famed for his gobsmackingly amazing Dj sets in which he actually carves out a listenable track by scratching 2 records on non other than their very own paper labels!
Ijin is indeed proud to have dressesd The Man.
Domo arigatoo!

IVAN VS. IJIN

2009-01-30T16:37:00.000+01:00

Here is the reason why you cannot get hold of any of the red hot Ijin items in Scandi -land : Ivan .
Ivan is a ( now ) 17 year old schoolboy who , when not hard studying , has turned into the biggest & most celebrated collector of Ijin Material items & accessories we have yet come across.His Ijin obsession keep him very busy with storage problems & laundering as we can see & he is forced to sleep on floor of his bedroom due to lack of available space.

But Ivan's dedication does not finish here by anymeans.
Here is the result : The Cubist Ijin Half Man , painted when Ivan was a mere 15 . Such is his dedication to The Ijin that he bunked off school for a day to travel into Stockholm city centre & present the original piece to the Voxers in Gamla Stan so that it could be left on permanent display in the Vox gallery.
All offers for this work of art can be made to www.111vox.com

A million thanks to Ivan , who can feel satisfied with being nominated the very first maniac Ijin collector & Ijin artist to boot!

ORIGINAL IJIN INDIGO BLUE PRINTS UNCOVERED....

2009-01-30T16:20:00.000+01:00

Along with a certain amount of early Spring cleaning at Ijin mansions, this rare document was discovered beneath the piles of denim sample lengths & rusty rivets of the Ijin warehouse in the back woods of the Marche regions of Italy, where all Ijin iregular indigo is made by hand.
This clearly shows the original draft for the very first Ijin item, very probably the J5030 Antifit Backstrap in the revolutionary "foldedege" cut.
Now placed in an air-proof cabinet , this valued denim manuscript & historical design blue print holds a proud place in the Ijin Museum of Irregular Indigo Items.

IJIN SEASONED SELVEDGE : 10 MONTHLY REPORT

2008-05-09T17:57:00.001+02:00

People never believe you when they ask you , & you tell them , just why your jeans look so good, but as we all know there is one rule of thumb:
no gain , no pain.
Ten months of ( almost ) every-day wearing in order to " season " ( this an IJIN terminology ) my IJIN 16" hem selvedges & still they continue to ask me "where I got them from", as if you can buy them off the shelf.

The nice thing about this selvedge fit is that this J5214 leg is cut quite slim which makes for creating fantastic knee " waves".You can actually see that the veining folds really broke the threads & wore through the fabric behind the knee & that the turn-up line is nearly sheared off by abrasion , front & back , from the razor sharp 2 inch creased line.The front half of the leg is about 3 inches longer than the back now & 2 pairs of Cons have blue wear rings around the tops.

Only soak- washed once in a salt & vinegar bath , they were lifted out , not wrung-out ,& hung outside to drip dry under the sun. I'll wear them for a few more months & then take a dip in the sea with them on so the white parts get a good bleaching.

And then I'll take some more shots.....

IJIN Vs. NINJA COLLABORATION : DENIM COLLECTIBLES

2008-05-01T17:59:00.000+02:00

" Ijin versus Ninja " is the working title of an exclusive garment collaboration between two independent and free spirited creative labels: Ijin Material , the left field denim label designed by Philip Goss, presents two limited edition dry " ninjin " legs, designed exclusively for Ninja Tune , the hugely influential london based record label, whose artiste collective offers such legendary names as Coldcut , and whose regular Solid Steel radio show mixes are aural collectors items.

These dry denim jeans are produced in a unique run of only 200 pieces, and are offered in a choice of embroidered logo back pockets : “Ninja Mask” or “Swarm of Eyes” .
The “ninjin “ leg is a regular fit ,12 ounce , dry ring/ring denim leg, offered in 2 denim colours : blue-black indigo & black denim. They are cut using the innovative “wrap-leg “ cutting technique , specialised by Ijin Material , where the outseam of the leg is cut folded & the hip fitting is sewn into the waist with a dart.Basically each leg is cut as one piece, leaving no out seam below the knee , & consequently a totally clean-finish chainstitched hem, when turned up.
The trademark top button is always hidden , the coin pocket is reinforced with specially sewn mini ninja mask rivets , inside seams are taped & they even come with double leather waist labels.

The mini range includes one sweat shirt and two tee shirt designs and is initially available from the Ninja Tune web store & selected outlets from May onwards .......while stocks last.

* Special thanks to GIOVANNI GHIANDONI for the photo shoot &
MASSIMO The Model , for surviving the day...
For further details contact info@giovannighiandoni.com

THE EYE ON IJIN

2008-04-07T16:47:00.000+02:00

QUICK OFF THE MARK IS i-eye BLOG , WHO FEATURE THE NEW VERSION OF THE IJIN CLASSIC BACKSTRAP LEG

FOR A FRESH LIFESTYLE PERSPECTIVE CHECK OUT THE BLOG www.i-eye.no

IJIN MATERIAL JEANS IN TOP MAGAZINE , GERMANY

2008-03-31T15:48:00.000+02:00

PREMIUM DENIM PRESENTATION ARTICLE FOR THE SPRING EDITION OF TOP MAGAZINE'S UPDATE ON THE JEANS LABELS OF THE MOMENT.

THIS FEATURES NON OTHER THAN THE INFAMOUS SEASONED IJIN MATERIAL FOLDEDGE CUT CLASSIC BACKSTRAP J5030.
FOR OTHER UPDATES CHECK OUT : http://www.top-frankfurt.de

SEASONED IJINS pt.3 -Ijin 5030 classic foldedge backstrap legs sighted in central London

2008-03-11T15:51:00.000+01:00

As we all know , Ijin Material excels in the combination of dry denim and specialist cutting techniques. wearing Ijin legs for a long period of time before washing them is termed "seasoning" by the Ijin himself. During this often difficult passage of time , around about the nine month period, things start to get a bit odorous.So what better way to rid yourself of the unwanted perfume of never washed denim than a damned good airing.
Here is a regular ijin material customer spotted in the cramped conditions of central London's Oxford street , giving his mid-seasoned Ijin legs a spring clean and a well earned freshener , in order to continue the quest to obtain the beautiful blue leg.
Seasons to be cheerful, indeed.

POWDER BLUE ? THE NEW BLUE /BLACK DENIM

2008-03-11T15:13:00.000+01:00

RARER THAN HEN'S TEETH ARE THE DRY POWDER BLUE DENIM LEGS FROM IJIN MATERIAL PRESENTED IN A BACK ISSUE FOLD-EDGE STYLE J5010, WITH THE OVERLAYED "SIXTH" POCKET ON THE BACK .

MADE FROM A SPECIAL 11 OUNCE RING RING DENIM, THE WHICH HAS BEEN DIPPED ONLY 8 TIMES TO CREATE THIS LUSTROUS AZZURE BLUE, THIS STYLE BUCKS THE TREND FOR LIGHTER COLOURS IN DENIM,WHILST RELYING ON FABRIC RESEARCH AND PRODUCTION EXPERTISE RATHER THAN INDUSTRIAL WASHING AND GARMENT DYING FOR OPTIMUM RESULTS.

BABY SOFT AND MATCHING BLUE TO BOOT , THIS IS A SUMMER MUST-HAVE ITEM , AVAILABLE EXCLUSIVELY FROM www.111vox.com

THE STEALTH OF IJIN : " APPARENTLY NOTHING "

2008-03-07T15:01:00.003+01:00

CURRENTLY HEADING UP THE TREND FOR THE " JEAN TROUSER " , IJIN MATERIAL PRESENTS 2 CURRENT MODELS WHICH OOZE STEALTHY STYLE & THE HIDDEN BEAUTY OF FLUORO TONE LOGOS.
NEVER TOO MUCH & ALWAYS JUST ENOUGH.
BUT WHERE EXACTLY ARE THESE DETAILS....??

EVEN FROM THE BACK THINGS LOOK PRETTY PLAIN , BUT THERE IS A BACK POCKET FLASHER ON SHOW , SO THERE MUST BE A POCKET( OR TWO)....

JUST WHEN YOU THOUGHT THAT THERE WAS NOTHING REALLY GOING ON , HERE ARE THE DETAILS.....

THE FAMOUS IJIN FLY : TOTALLY HIDES ALL BUTTONS, EVEN INCLUDING THE WAIST BUTTON, WHICH IS NEVER , EVER SHOWN.

THE STEALTH POCKET : SET INTO THE BACK THROUGH THE SIDE SEAM , WITH APPARENTLY NO BRANDING , UNTIL YOU LOOK INSIDE , WHERE YOU WILL FIND A LEFT & A RIGHT HANDED " SLEEPING MAN " EMBROIDERY INSIDE EACH POCKET.

FROM THE BACK THIS 5 POCKET IJIN LEG LOOKS LIKE A TROUSER STYLE , WITH JETTED POCKETS.
EVEN THE YOKE & CROTCH SEAM IS NEARLY INVISIBLE.

ONLY THE ESSENTIAL STITCHING IS HIGHLIGHTED.
THIS TIME THE POCKET TOP IS STITCHED IN YOKE YELLOW , DOUBLED-UP LUGGAGE THREAD.
THE REST IS STITCHED IN REAL INDIGO THREAD , WHICH FADES BACK WITH THE DENIM ITSELF.
THE SINGLE FLUORO "HALF MAN " IS IN FACT 2 EMBROIDERIES :
THE LEFT HAND LOGO IS EMBROIDERED ON TOP OF THE RIGHT HAND ONE

THE INDIVIDUALLY EMBROIDERED IJIN SHAVED LEATHER WAIST PATCH , SEWN ON VERTICALLY.
THIS IS ADAPTED TO FIT & SUIT EVERY PARTICULAR DESIGN & IS UPDATED EACH & EVERY PRODUCTION RUN.

IJIN STORE CHOICE #1:"ISH" KUNGALV , SWEDEN

2008-03-07T14:11:00.000+01:00

THE DEDICATED IJIN WALL......

THE DEDICATED IJIN WALL IN THE CONTACT KARATE DEPARTMENT......

YET ANOTHER DEDICATED IJIN WALL......

"THE HALL OF SHAME" IJIN MATERIAL COPY PRODUCT#1

2008-01-31T17:07:00.000+01:00

OF THE MANY "INTERPRETATIONS" OF THE UNIQUE MODEL J5030 FROM THE IJIN MATERIAL PRODUCT LINE , THIS ONE IS THE
MOST BLATANT BY VIRTUE OF THE FACT THAT, WHEN CONFRONTED WITH THE SUGGESTION THAT THIS JEAN MIGHT POSSIBLY BE CONSIDERED AN INFRINGEMENT OF IJIN MATERIAL INTELLECTUAL PROPERTY, A SPOKESMAN FOR WAX DENIED EVERYTHING BY SAYING THAT THIS DESIGN WAS MOSTLY INFLUENCED BY MOTO CROSS PANTS , AND WAS UNABLE TO " SEE A PROBLEM ".
HMMM..........DON'T THINK SO WAX.THAT FLY DETAIL STITCH FOR ONE , IS FAR TOO CLOSE TO THE ORIGINAL IJIN ITEM.

VERDICT : IJIN "SHAMEOMETER" VOTE OF 8.5 OUT OF 10.

COMING SOON : THE HUGO BOSS , ABSOLUTELY SHAMELESS & ENORMOUS COPY OF J5030.

BIANCHIN'S BLACK BANANAS - J5135 AS SEASONED BY MR MIRKO

2007-11-19T16:44:00.000+01:00

EXCELLENT EXAMPLE OF A SEASONED J5135 SLIM BACK STRAP FOLDEDGE CUT LEG ,WHICH WHEN WORN-IN HEAVILLY & NOT WASHED , WILL CREATE THE " BANANA " LEG , COMMON TO IJIN MATERIAL STYLES CUT IN THIS WAY.IN FACT IT WAS LEGENDARY LONDON STYLIST MR. JOHNNY ROCKA WHO COINED THE PHRASE " BODY SONIC JEANS " WHEN DESCRIBING THE TECHNICAL TERM FOR THIS NATURAL IJIN MATERIAL ATTRIBUTE , HERE SHOWN IN AN UNCOMPROMISING 13 OUNCE BLACK DENIM.

THE J5135 HAS 2 INTERACTING FRONT LEG SEAMS WHICH ERGONOMICALLY WORK WITH & AGAINST EACH OTHER TO BREAK-IN HARD FABRICS & ADAPT TO YOUR OWN BODY SHAPE.

CLEAR PROOF THAT THE IJIN MATERIAL FOLDEDGE CUTTING TECHNIQUE REALLY FUNCTIONS, & BREAKS-IN THE MOST OBSTINATE DRY DENIMS & ASSISTS PERSONALISED "SEASONING".

CLOSE-UP OF THE BACK POCKET , ALSO SHOWING MR. MIRKO'S CHEEKY CHAIN ADDITION.

IJIN DENIM - CONSTRUCTION IN COLOUR

2007-11-19T15:52:00.000+01:00

BLUE-BLACK , BONE DRY DENIM IS WHAT IJIN MATERIAL SPECIALIZES IN, AS WE ALL KNOW.HOWEVER, ONLY THE CLOTH ITSELF IS ONE SINGLE COLOUR.ALL THE SIZE 25 HEAVY WEIGHT SEWING THREADS THAT ARE UTILIZED ON ANY INDIVIDUAL IJIN MATERIAL GARMENT ARE MULTICOLOURED IN ORDER TO IDENTIFY FUNCTION PER STYLE OR PER SEASON.
NUMBER ONE FAVOURITE INTERNAL ONLY COLOUR FROM 3 YEARS AGO WAS SAGE GREEN.

INDIVIDUALLY SELECTED STYLES CARRIED THE SAGE GREEN OVERLOCKED IN-SEAMS.

PEACH THREAD HAS BEEN USED FOR BUTTONHOLES ON EARLIER MODELS.CHECK OUT WHICH COLOUR YOU HAVE.....

PEACH THREAD IS COMMONLY USED BY IJIN MATERIAL AS THE COLOUR TO HIGHLIGHT STRESS POINTS ON IJIN DENIM THAT HAVE BEEN STRENGTHENED.

TINY PEACH ACCENTS ARE VISIBLE ON ALL THE DETAIL & STRENGTHENING POINTS.

STANDARD HONEY TOBACCO THREAD IS THE SECOND MOST COMMON IJIN MATERIAL THREAD COLOUR.THIS IS OFTEN USED WITH THE EGG YOLK THREAD SEEN THROUGH TO THE BACK OF THE FOTO.

REAL INDIGO THREAD IS THE IJIN STANDARD FOR SEWING THE "INVISIBLE " STITCHING. TRADITIONALLY THIS COLOUR WOULD BE BLACK , BUT THE USE OF REAL INDIGO THREAD WILL ALLOW IT WASH & WEAR BACK AT A SIMILAR RATE TO THE ACTUAL DENIM USED, RATHER THAN LEAVE DARK LINES FROM BLACK THREADS USED TRADITIONALLY , WHICH SEEMED TO BLEND IN TO DARK DENIM IN THE BEGINNING.

THE " INVISIBLE " THREADS ARE TO BE FOUND ON AREAS LIKE THE TOP LINE OF THE WAIST BAND.BY STITCHING IN STEALTHY COLOURS THE WAIST BAND LOOKS MUCH LOWER THAN IT REALLY IS

DISCOVERED - EARLY MODEL 5056 GAPERS, AS WORN BY MIRKO BIANCHIN

2007-11-14T12:04:00.000+01:00

FINE EXAMPLE OF THE LIMITED RUN 5056 WESTERN GAPER MODEL PRODUCED IN LATE 2004.THIS RAN FOR 2 SEASONS ONLY.INCORPORATING UNUSUAL IN-SEAM FRONT POCKETS , THIS MODEL ALSO HAD THE "FIFTH" POCKET ON THE OUTSIDE LEFT LEG WHICH CAME IN HEART FORM & THE VICTORIAN BACK STRAP IN UNSHAVED LEATHER.

THE IJIN MATERIAL WESTERN "GAPERS" GOT THEIR NAME FROM THE WAY IN WHICH THE POCKET OPENED WHEN THEY WERE WORN.THE POCKET IS ACTUALLY CONSTRUCTED AS WOULD BE A "CONTROVENTO" STYLE POCKET WITH THE TOP FABRIC PIECE COVERING THE POCKET ENTRANCE.
THIS WOULD KEEP THE RAIN OUT ALSO.
NOTE THE DOUBLE OVER EMBROIDERED "HALF-MAN" LOGO - SEWN IN 2 SHADES OF EGG YOLK SIZE 25 THREAD.

FRONT LEG SHOWING THE END OF THE FITTING SIDE SEAM , WHICH ENDS JUST ABOVE THE KNEE , ON THIS, & ALL , IJIN MATERIAL WRAP-LEG CUT LEGS.

FRONT APRON IMAGE SHOWING THE SEASONING ON THIS RARE MODEL .

FOTO SHOWING CROTCH WEAR , BUT NOT WORN-OUT.NOTE THAT THE CROSSED SEAMS AT THE CROTCH ARE MADE FROM 3 TYPES - TOP STITCHED FRONT , TAILOR FINISHED BUSTED BACK SEAM & RUN & FELL IN-SEAM.

BACK LEG VIEW SHOWING BACK KNEE RIPPLES STARTING & CHEWED HEELS

NICE SHOT OF THE LEATHER VICTORIAN STYLE BELT USED ON THIS STYLE , WHICH DESPITE AGE , WEAR & TEAR IS STILL INTACT.NOTE THE OUTWARDS FACING BACK POCKETS , PARTICULAR TO THIS STYLE.

BEAUTIFUL "SEASONED" BACK RIGHT POCKET , CLEARLY SHOWING THE IMPRINT LEFT BY THE HIDDEN RED TAG SEWN INTO EVERY IJIN MATERIAL DENIM LEG.

BACK LEFT POCKET WITH WEAR HOLE , SHOWING THE BIG 1 & 1/2 INCH LOWER POCKET SEAMS.NOTE POCKET UN TRADITIONALLY FACES THE OUTER SEAM.

SOLO SWEDEN - INSIDE THE OUTSIDER

2007-11-06T15:10:00.001+01:00

TOP INDEPENDENT SWEDISH MENS CONCEPT STORE & KEY IJIN MATERIAL STOCKIST TELLS IT HOW IT IS , OR RATHER , PROUDLY SHOWS YOU THE INTERIOR DESIGN STANDARDS OF IJIN DENIM PRODUCT.
FOR MORE STORE INFO CHECK OUT http://www.solo.se

"X-RAY IJIN "- IJIN SECRETS UNCOVERED Pt. 3

2007-10-29T19:13:00.000+01:00

IMAGE CLEARLY SHOWING THE INNOVATIVE CUTTING TECHNIQUE FUNDAMENTAL TO IJIN MATERIAL DENIM PRODUCT.THIS TIME , AN INSIDE "OYSTER" VIEW OF THE FINISHING & SEAM CONSTRUCTION OF THE "FOLDEDGE" CUT J5030 WITH NO FRONT OR BACK SEAMS.

IMAGE CLEARLY SHOWING THE TWO HALFMEN EMBROIDERIES WHICH ARE DIFFERENT BY VIRTUE OF ONE BEING STITCHED ACROSS & ONE VERTICALLY.IF THE TWO ARE PUT TOGETHER THEY MAKE A COMPLETE "HALFMAN" .

IMAGE SHOWING MANY "HALFMEN" LOGOS INCORPORATED INTO IJIN LEGS , BUY ONLY ONE IS VISIBLE TO THE HUMAN EYE.

IMAGE SHOWING THE FAMOUS " SIXTH POCKET " OF THE ( NOW VINTAGE IJIN ) SELVEDGE STYLE J5102.NOTE THAT THE HALFMAN IS FAINT .THIS MEANS IT WAS SEWN ON IN A LEATHER APPLICATION .THE "MISSING STITCHING " ON THE TOP OF THE POCKETS & WAIST BAND IS ACTUALLY WHERE THE REAL INDIGO THREAD IS SEWN ON THE GARMENT.